Retailing textile designs to local manufacturers and artisans promotes your brand as a designer and is a good opportunity for collaboration.
Importantly select the best materials and manufacturers possible to increase the benefit of producing independently and maintain a local ethos. Keep in mind careful colour selection for non seasonal collections when designing small runs and seek out unusual fabrications.
Things to consider when manufacturing locally are price and minimums and if you prefer your label to evolve on-shore or towards mass market levels of production or to on-sell.
Featured is a collaboration of my textile design’s with industrial designer Ke:ec. Hand drawn textile design’s silkscreen printed onto a cotton drill base cloth and manufactured by Ke:ec into satchel bags. The products were retailed in a shop called Bamakko in Melbourne and online. The product was sourced, designed and made locally.
After learning the art of silkscreen printmaking in Glasgow and graduating from Fine Art, I rented a studio space in the Nicholas Building in Melbourne and started my own textile design label called Orchis Morio.
I designed textile print repeats from ink pen drawings and sourced a local manufacturer to silkscreen print the designs onto fabrics. The fabrics were retailed by the metre to local artisans for accessories and homewares products, as well I designed my own homewares products.
Inspired by the art nouveau and Mackintosh architectural nature of the Glasgow cityscape, I designed a logotype for the label. Orchis Morio is the green-winged orchid and was chosen because of the organic and unusual form of the orchid flower. The flower is part of the orchidaceae family and has purple flowers, often located in Europe and the Middle East. The logo motif was drawn based on the flower and the logotype letters were original typeface designs developed in illustrator, referencing the Glasgow style.
From a design perspective it’s important to have a unique brand ethos to begin with, as this can be the blueprint to refine and rebrand later on.
As part of my Fine Art degree I studied on exchange at the Glasgow School of Art where I learnt the traditional art of silkscreen, the process of separating the colours in an image, design or pattern repeat for silkscreen printmaking onto a substrate.
A silkscreen print is created by reducing a motif in an image to black to create a stencil, painting a silkscreen with photo emulsion and exposing the stencil on the silkscreen to light to create the stencil effect. The stencil is the negative area of the image, blocking out the colour and leaving the positive area in the stencil for the colour. Pigment ink is poured through the silkscreen stencil onto a paper or fabric base cloth to create the coloured print. Repeating this process for each colour in the design. A two colour print would require two silkscreen stencils, printing the first colour, lining up the print and printing the second colour. Ideally if you retain the silkscreen’s the print can then be reprinted seasonally with a new colour palette.
The beauty of silkscreen is the soft, smooth and watercolour like effect it gives a print and how it seamlessly separates the colours so the overall ‘look’ of the print is unified.
The process of silkscreen is fairly labour intensive, especially if you compare printing a single four colour poster image to lining up a screen across many metres to silkscreen bolts of fabric, that may have up to twelve colours in a design.
I designed a collection of silkscreen prints by filming digital video excerpt’s of cityscapes in Glasgow using still image’s from the footage as a basis to design silkscreen prints. I printed the prints and the colourways using the traditional silkscreen printing method onto an archival print paper.
I followed the television and costume thread when I studied Fine Art and produced a short Ident film, shot on digital video with audio edited in. The aim was to reveal an aspect of your identity. There are many ways to look at something. I focused on music and fashion. I put together the outfits, all sourced from Melbourne clothes designers. Storyboarding anIdentvideo where I play three musical instruments. The twist being I can only play one of the instruments.
Welcome to my fashion and textile design blog, OM Label.
This blog is about all pursuits related to the field of fashion and textiles.
After studying an arts degree with a major in English I went onto study a Fine Art degree in painting, drawing, design and film. In 2006 I went to Glasgow and learnt the art of silkscreen printmaking and worked on a feature film. I designed my first silkscreen prints in 2007/08 in my studio in Melbourne under the label Orchis Morio, specialising in printed textiles on organic cotton base cloths, retailing the designs by the metre, they were featured on homewares and accessories products.
In 2011 I rebranded Orchis Morio to OM Label and began my fashion label designing garments from textiles digitally printed onto silk. I moved to London to work in fashion for a couple of years. In 2014/15 I started retailing textiles through Patternbank and designed for Target. Recently I completed a Diploma in Applied Fashion Design and Merchandising (Design and Product Development). I design all textiles and fashion design products under the name OM Label.